Dress form



E. GURNEY.

DRESS FORM.

APPLICATION FILED osch4, 1919.

1,416,405, Patgnted May16,1922.

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

A TTOR NE Y5 E.GURNEY.

DRESS FORM.

APPLICATION mso 020.4, l9l9.

Patented May 16, 19225 2 SHEET$-SHEET 2.

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A TTORNE YS entries EDIVIUND GURNEY, 0Z6 PORTLAND, OREGON.

DRESS FORM.

Application filed December 4, 1919.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, EDMUND GURNEY, a citizenof the United States, residing at Portland, in the county of Multnomahand State of Oregon, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsin Dress Forms, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention relates to improvements in dress forms and isdesigned primarily with a view to producing exactly the attitude of theperson who is being fitted.

Adjustable dress forms of many types have heretofore been proposed, bymeans of which sections may be adjusted with relation to each other soas to obtain the correct measurements of size and these serve theirpurpose well, but the important feature in the art of tailoring residesmore especiallyin the ability of the tailor to make the garment conformto the attitude, and by this term is meant the condition of erectness orpoise, of a figure. In these known adjustable forms provision is notmade for this, or at least would be obtainable, if at all possible, bycomplicated adjustments of the various sections, mainly because thatportion of the form at the neck is stationary or immovably fixed,whereas a condition of stoop shoulder, for example, neces-' sarilyinvolves a forward tilt of the neck.

My invention, therefore, has as its object to provide a simple dressform which comprises certain adjustable parts so arranged that by asimple movement of one, the parts are capable of being disposed in thedesired position or attitude, predetermined generally by the applicationof the conventional measurements to the form of the person for whom thegarment is being prepared.

My invention is based upon the fact that the varying degrees oferectness of the human form, running from the stoop shouldered to thevery erect type, are modifications of the position of the head andshoulder portion with respect to a horizontal axis passing through theshoulders. This afiects, of course, the distance between the neck andthe waist line both at the front and back, and in my dress form,hereinafter set forth, by pivoting a movable shoulder section at theshoulders and to a shiftable front sec tion operable with the shouldersection, I am Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 16, 1922.

Serial No. 342,426.

able to obtain any desired conformation of a dress form to the attitudeof the person to be fitted.

These and such other objects as may herelnafter appear are attained bythe novel constructlon, combination and arrangement of parts to behereinafter specifically described and claimed. Reference will now behad to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification,wherein:

F igure 1 is a front elevation of a form constructed in accordance withmy invention.

Figure 2 is a side elevation thereof.

Figure 3 is a rear elevation showing the movable shoulder section inclosed position.

F igure 4 is a rear elevation similar to Figure 3, showing the movableshoulder section in open or forward position.

Figure 5 is a side elevation of the form in the adjusted position shownin Figure 4.

Figures 6 and 7 are front and side elevations of the neck attachmentused with this form, and

Figures 8 and 9 are front and side elevations of the shoulder attachmentalso used with this form.

Throughout the following detail description and on the several figuresof the drawings, similar parts are referred to by like referencecharacters.

Referring to the drawings, it will be observed that the formconstituting the subject matter of my invention consists of a main orrelatively stationary body portion 1, an upper shoulder and neck section2, and a front movable section 3. These sections constitute the mainfeatures of construction of this form but it should be understood thatthe several sections may be divided if so desired, as in known forms atpresent in use, to obtain expansion or contraction of size but sincethis does not form any feature of the present idea, I neither illustratenor describe such an arrangement.

The shoulder section 2 is produced by dividing the form in a horizontalplane from front to rear at the bust or shoulders, and this section isconnected to the forward p0rtion of theback section by means of a pairof plates at each shoulder, designated 4: and 5, said plates beingsecured to the sections by fastening members 4: and 5, and connected toeach other by the pivot means 6. The pivot or pivots, one at each side,it will be observed, are disposed in advance of a median plane passingvertically from side to side of the form, most clearly shown in Figuresand 5 of the drawings.

Tn addition to this pivotal connection of the shoulder section, I employnieas for holding the shoulder section at adjusted positions obtained byswinging the shoulder section forwardly or rearwardly on its pivotmeans. In the embodiment such means takes the, form of a slotted member'2 at tached at the center of the back and projecting above the sameinto cooperative re lation with the shoulder section which is providedwith a clamping member or bolt 8 extending through the slot of themember 7. It will be obvious that the tightening of this clamping memberwill suflice to hold the shoulder section in any of its adjustedpositions.

The front section 3 is formed by dividing the form at the waist lineextending from the front to the middle of the form from the shoulder tothe waist line, and this section is connected to the shoulder section bya pivot or hinge connection 9 at the bust line. The body 1 has securedthereto a metal plate 10, or similar means, engaging with the face ofthe lower end of the movable section 3 and forming a retainer or guidefor the free end of this section. lt will he observed. that the movementof the shoulder section 2 forwardly or rearwardly will lower or raisethe front section 3, as shown most clearly in Figure 2 of the drawingsand this action necessarily changes the distance between the neck andthe waist line at the front as well as from the neck to the waist lineat the back, and such adjustment of the form is designed to make thesame conform to the condition of erectness or poise of the person to befitted, as hereinbefore premised.

As a matter of convenience T preferably secure to the hack of the formbetween the shoulders and the waist a convenient measuring means asindicated at 11, this facilitating the application of measurements totheform as e:-: lained hereinafter.

Before describing the use of the form it may be well tonote that theform above described is preferably mounted. upon stand 12, the uprightstandard 12 of which extends into a tube 1.3 arranged within the form orbody portion 1, the clamping screw 14 being provided for holding theform at the proper height.

Referring to Figures 6 to 9, 1 preferably employ with this form a neckattachment 15 which is in the nature of a collar provided at its loweredges with open ended slots 16 to engage w1th the fastening members 1?on the shoulder section and. when it is desired, to obtain a position ofthe neck to more nearly follow the particular figure which is to befitted. in addition I also employ for the same purpose of reproducingdifferent types of shoulders a shoulder attachment l8 engageable withthe fastening means 19 on the shoulder section as shown in Figure 3.

The form above described may be made of any desired material such aspapier-mache, metal or the like.

In the use of the form, when it is de sired to adjust the same, theconventional measurements of the person to be fitted are applied theretoin the usual. manner. For example, in tailoring the most importantmeasurement which is to be ascertained is the depth of the scye, or thedistance between the neck seam and the plane at the bottom of thearmhole. This is secured by passing a tape about the bust of the persondirectly beneath the arms, making a mark in the center of the back witha piece of chalk, as at A in Figure 3. The measuring tape is thenapplied. to ascertain the distance between the neck seam B and the markA, this being noted as the depth of the scye, and the distance betweenthe mark A and the waist line is noted, giving the height of the scye.Of course, other methods of measurement may be followed and this is notdesigned to define any specific manner. or method to be pursued inascertaining the conventional measurements. The first measurement,however, which is applied to the dress form is the depth of the scyemeasurement. in a pplyi this measurement, if the distance between theneck seam and the mark A needs lengthening, as where there is a slightstoop in the figure of the person fitted. the shoulder section is movedforwardly until the measurement coincides, whereupon the fastening means8 is tightened to hold the shoulder section in the adjusted position.The height of the scye being known is applied or apparent from themeasuring device 11 whicl is attached to the dress form. l fhere theperson is more erect it will be obvious that the adjustment of the formis obtainable by a reverse movement of the shoulder section. In theseadjustments the neck of the form is brought forwardly or rearwardly andthe front section 3 is correspondingly shifted so that the tailor ableto duplicate the form to be fitted to the customers actual measurements.The use in conjunction with the form of the attachments shown. inFigures 6 to 9 need not be further described than has already been setforth in the foregoing description.

The form may be displaced from the standard 12 and, placed upon a tableif so desired for purposes of convenience.

Having thus described my invention, what ll claim as new is:

1. A dress form divided horizontally;

across the bust to form a shoulder portion and a main body portion, and,pivot means connecting the shoulder portion to the body portion at theopposite sides thereof holding said shoulder portion against movementlaterally but permitting it to swing forwardly and backwardly.

2. A dress form divided horizontally from front to back at a planepassing through the shoulders to form an adjustable shoulder and neckportion and a main body portion, pivot connections intermediate theshoulder and body portions to permit the form to swing forwardly andbackwardly about an axis passing through the shoulders whereby theshoulders and neck of the form may be simultaneously adjusted.

3. A dress form divided horizontally from front to back at a planepassing through the bust to form an adjustable shoulder portion and arelatively stationary body portion, and pivot means connecting theshoulder portion to the body portion in a plane forwardly of the medianvertical plane from side to side of the form whereby to permit theshoulder portion to swing forwardly and baokwardly with respect to thesaid median plane.

4. A dress form divided horizontally across the front in two planes, oneat the shoulder and the other below the shoulder to form an adjustableshoulder portion, an adjustable front portion and a main body portion,pivot means connecting the shoulder portion to the body portion topermit the former to swing about an axis passing through the shoulders,and means intermediate the shoulder portion and the front portion topermit the latter to shift with respect to the body portion when theshoulder portion is adjusted.

5. A dress form divided horizontally across from front to back in aplane passing through the shoulders and in a plane approximate the waistline at the front to form an adjustable shoulder portion and a separateadjustable front portion, pivot means for said shoulder portionpermitting the same to swing forwardly and backwardly, and a connectionintermediate the shoulder and front portions to permit the latter toshift upwardly or downwardly when the shoulder portion is swungforwardly or rearwardly.

6. A dress form divided horizontally across from front to back in aplane passing tl'irough the shoulders and in a second plane approximatethe waistline at the front and vertically at the sides to formadjustable shoulder and front portions and a main stationary portion,means pivotally connecting the shoulder portion and the body portion atthe front of the latter and a hinged connection between the shoulder andfront portions whereby when the former is swung upon its pivot thelatter is shifted upwardly and downwardly.

7. A dress form divided horizontally across from front to back in aplane passing through the shoulders and in a second plane approximatethe waist line at the front and vertically at the sides to formadjustable shoulder and front portions and a main stationary portion,means pivotally connecting the shoulders portion and the body por tionat the front of the latter, a hinged connection between the shoulder andfront portions whereby when the former is swung upon its pivot thelatter is shifted upwardly and downwardly, and means for guiding andholding the lower part of the front section.

8. A dress form of the class described, comprising a relativelystationary back section, an upper shoulder section pivotally connectedto the back section, and a front section pivotally connected to theshoulder section whereby movement of the shoulder section will modifythe depth. of the scye and simultaneously modify the distance betweenthe neck and the waist line at the front.

9. An adjustable attitude form of the class described, comprising a mainbody portion, a shoulder section pivoted thereto at the front of thebody portion to permit the shoulder section to move forwardly or rearwardly to reproduce erect or stoop shouldered configurations, said bodyportion having a separate front section shiftable by the shouldersection to move the bust upwardly or downwardly in the shifting of theformer.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

EDMUND GURNEY.

